BEHIND THE BRAND with Dr Dennis Gross

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We spoke with Dr Goss and his team about the tips and tricks we need to know for summer skin care.

 What products should everyone have in their skin care routine?

Everyone should have a cleanser, peel, serum, eye treatment, moisturizer and sunscreen in their daily routine. The serum should be your powerhouse product chosen to tackle your biggest skincare concerns. For example, if you are looking for a brightened complexion with diminished hyperpigmentation, try a vitamin C serum. If your concerns are signs of aging and thinning skin, look for a retinol serum. That said, you can always use two serums, one in the morning and the other at night, to target multiple concerns. Arguably the most important step is using a sunscreen every day – rain or shine. This not only protects skin against premature signs of aging but also potential skin cancers.

Do you need different products for morning and evening?

I always recommend that my patients use a vitamin C serum for morning and a retinol product at night. This is because vitamin C is able to scavenge & neutralize free radicals – harmful, unstable molecules that wreak havoc on skin by damaging collagen. By using vitamin C in the morning, you are giving skin an added layer of protection from free radicals during the day when your skin is most likely to come in contact with sun and pollution. I prefer to use retinol at night because it reduces the risk of sun sensitivity. 

What’s the best age to start using anti-aging products or procedures?

You can absolutely use skincare products and procedures as preventative measures against early signs of aging. I generally recommend patients start incorporating ingredients like vitamin C and retinol into their regimens in their early to mid-twenties. This is when we start to see the natural production of collagen slow down. That said, it is never too late to start implementing a skincare routine with active ingredients. Ingredients and delivery systems have become more optimized and high-tech over the years so you can really see a drastic improvement in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, crepey skin and loss of volume with the correct regimen. At all ages, I recommend using a mineral sunscreen. As I mentioned, this not only protects skin against early signs of aging, but also skin cancer.

 Can your skin get too acclimated to certain products, making them less effective?

No – this is a myth! On the contrary, your skin loves consistency. Giving your skin a consistent dose of collagen-stimulating ingredients like vitamin C, retinol and LED keeps collagen production ramped up and performing at an optimal output. That said, if you want to rev up your regimen, you can add in what I call “skin boosters”. These are products that have a higher potency of active ingredients and are designed to be used once or twice per week. Note that these should not replace your daily regimen, but instead work as an addition to give your skin a boost.

How does summer, the heat and humidity, impact our skin?

Higher temperatures during the summer cause our bodies to produce more natural oils – pores may appear larger and you may experience more breakouts. This is especially prevalent with acne-prone skin. The summer sun is also more intense. To combat excess oil production in warmer months, incorporate a daily two step chemical peel into your regimen. The Alpha Beta Extra Strength Daily Peel has AHAs and BHA to remove dead skin cells and clear pores to prevent breakouts while giving skin an immediate radiance and smoothed texture. While you should be wearing a mineral sunscreen all year round, it is especially important to make sure you are protected in the summer. Look for a mineral sunscreen with at least SPF 30 and make sure you cover areas like your hairline, back of your neck and ears – all easy places to miss.

 

What ingredients are most effective?

This is dependent on your skin type and concerns. My top ingredient recommendations per skin type are:

1. Vitamin C: this is great for anyone looking to treat or prevent signs of sun aging including fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation or dullness. It not only stimulates skin’s natural production of collagen, but also neutralizes damaging free radicals, preventing damage in the first place. You can find this ingredient in different formulations suited for all skin types.

2. Retinol: this ingredient is the gold standard for anti-aging. If your concerns are primarily fine lines and wrinkles, this should be your star ingredient. It works by stimulating cellular turnover to smooth lines, firm skin and diminish hyperpigmentation.

3. Hyaluronic acid: this ingredient is great for plumping the skin and delivering hydration without clogging pores. This ingredient is naturally found in the body and great for all skin types.

4. Alpha and beta hydroxy acids: these are multifaceted ingredients that go beyond exfoliation. They remove dead skin and debris from skin’s surface, giving an immediate radiance and clear complexion. 

5. LED: another universal ingredient, LED is great for anyone looking to target acne and/or signs of aging. Red light stimulates collagen production and reduces inflammation while blue LED targets acne-causing bacteria. The DRx SpectraLite FaceWare Pro has both red and blue light. The treatment is just three minutes per day and you can see results in as little as three days for acne and 4 weeks for fine lines and wrinkles.

6. Peptides: great for firming skin and smoothing fine lines and wrinkles. In our new DermInfusions Fill + Repair Serum, peptides are formulated with hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and ectoin to fill, plump and firm skin while restoring the moisture barrier.

7. Niacinamide: this is another multi-tasking ingredient that repairs the moisture barrier and reduces redness and inflammation. 

How should our skincare routine change during summer?

In warmer months, our skin tends to become more oily. This is because as temperatures increase, our sebum production ramps up. This combined with added humidity means that our skin oils stay on our surface, increasing the risk for clogged pores, breakouts and shiny skin. To combat this, swap out your moisturizer for one that is oil-free. You should be wearing a sunscreen year round, but it is especially important to do so in the summer when sun’s rays are stronger. Finally, as I mentioned, add a daily two-step chemical peel to your regimen. Two steps are critical here. Step one should be the acids and step two should be the neutralizer. The second neutralizing steps ensures the acids are shut off from step one, reducing irritation.  

How much SPF does our skin need?

According to the American Academy of Dermatology, you should use about ¼ teaspoon for the face and neck and about an ounce for the full body. You want to make sure you apply sunscreen liberally and cover easy-to-miss places like the back of the neck and ears.

How many times should we reapply sunscreen?

This really depends on your activity. If you are sweating or swimming, you should reapply immediately after your activity. If you use a physical block and working at a desk with minimum activity, you may not need to reapply during the day.

Do you have any sunscreen recommendations?

I always recommend a broad-spectrum, all-physical sunscreen with at least and SPF 30. This will block 97% of UVA & UVB rays. My favorite is the All-Physical Lightweight Wrinkle Defense SPF 30. It is oil-free and incredibly lightweight. Plus it is formulated with antioxidants for added protection

What should we eat in summer for good skin and what should we avoid?

In general, what is good for your body is good for your skin. But to really your topical products have much more impact on skin health than what you eat. There have not been any substantial clinical studies that have been able to draw a distinctive connection between what you eat and negative effects on skin. For example, while some patients anecdotally experience acne after consuming dairy, there is not enough clinical data to back this up.